Mount Everest, the peak of the world. It is obvious that many people willing to first climbing Mount Everest. First climbing Mount Everest, as after the British explore the highest peak in the world, many groups of climbers from Britain, Swiss tried to make the record for first climbing Mount Everest. But all the attempts are gone into vain.
Just as the Swiss had been in the Summer of 1952, the British were aware that 1953 might be their last chance for success. Not only had the French been given permission for 1954, but the Swiss had been granted go in 1955.
The British Himalayan Committee therefore appointed Joohn Hunt, an army officer with an impressive Alpine and Himalayan record who had narrowly failed to make the 1936 Mount Everest expedition, as leader. Hunt’s team was a large one and included several who had been with Shipton on Cho Oyu in 1952. It comprised George Band, Tom Bourdillion, Charles Evans, Alf Gregory, Edmunt Hillary, George Lowe, Wilfred, Griffith Pugh (expedition physiologist), Michael Ward (expedition doctor : Evans was also a surgeon), Michale Westmacott and Charles Wylie, James Morris of The Times went to write dispatches for the paper and Tom Stobart was there to make a film of the attempt. Alf Gregory, an expert photographer was an ‘official’ stills photographer. Tenzing was invited to join the climbing team as well as being sirdar of the Sherpas.
The expedition established a series of closely spaced camps between the base of the Icefall and that the Lhotse face. The expedition had two types of oxygen equipment, the ‘open-circuit’ in which bottled oxygen supply and ‘closed-circuit’, which used a soda-lime canister to extractoxygen from the carbon-dioxide exhaled by the climber and recycled it, topped up with bottled oxygen. The advantage of the latter is that a richer supply of oxygen is produced, allowing the user to climb faster.
On 26th May Bordello and Evans set out from the Col at 7 am, with Hunt and the Sherpa Da Namgyal following to establish Camp IX on the ridge. Though Bourdillon and Evans made good progress at first, problem with Evan’s oxygen set and poor snow conditions slowed them as they got higher. Finally, they turned to descend
On 28 May Edmund Hillary and Ten zing Norgay Sherpa, supported by Lowe and Ang Nyima move up to Camp IX. On 29 May Hillary and Ten zing started up at 6:30am, quickly reaching the poor snow below the South Summit which had troubled the first pair. Hillary tackled it head on and was soon frightened by its condition. He pressed on, knowing a lip would be fatal for them both and knowing the slope could avalanche, but knowing, too, that was Mount Everest and his only chance of the top. By 9am they had overcome the slope and reached the South Summit of Mount Everest. The final ridge looked hard, but went straightforwardly, the only difficulty being the now-famous Hillary Step.
The pair then continued over easier ground to the Summit. Below the Summit the pair paused. After the congratulations, Hillary took summit shots of Ten zing and then peered down the north side for a sign of Mallory and Irvine.
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